It’s been a while since I’ve been out for an early ramble. This one begins at 6 am. It’s a follow-your-nose-despite-plans ramble, in the course of which I make new discoveries in a place I thought I knew reasonably well. My goal is Łazienki parklands, but I meander through Park Morski Oko en route, passing a police car beside a couple of shaken-looking people in orange T-shirts; a blind man tapping with his stick; a pair of middle-aged women on exercise machines; and a dog being groomed by its owner on a park bench (that’s where all those clumps of hair come from); being passed by bothersome cyclists. I meander, checking out anything that tickles my fancy: street boxes full of bright orange flowers; a fruiting beech tree; a low woven fence surrounding flowers with a sign identifying them; the brown furry cylinders of bulrushes topped by a spike; posters peeling from a blue fence.
Eventually I reach my true goal, and walk through the grand gate into the 76 hectares of Łazienki parkland and its shady avenue of trees. It’s already over 20° but I’m seduced out of the shade by tiger lilies and memories of my dad who sold tiger lily bulbs. I approach the Belverdere restaurant located in the neo-classicist New Orangery along a formal path marked by vivid pink plantings, past a fountain and a sundial, towards a curve of yellow flowers in every stage of bloom and decay.
Finding Chinese lanterns in the middle of Warsaw is no longer a surprise (see the link at the end of this post) but the painted pandas are, especially Tutankhamen Panda. Flowers, just past their prime are blooming, both subtle and startlingly bright, sheltering ducks and leading the eye to reflections.
I find a tree cave, branches right down to the ground and substantial (and unphotographable) space inside. A path leads past a bust of an important person through a rockery, over knotted roots, past grand bark, to a pool with wavering reflections, and down to a pseudo-Roman amphitheatre guarded by a parading peacock.
I catch glimpses of the palace on the isle, and when I reach it I find a troop of people at work: mowing the lawn, spraying ornamental trees, leaf-blowing, netting scum from the fountain pool, raking leaves: all overseen by nonchalant statues and more peacocks. Guards on segways cruise the park, making sure no one dares to tread on the grass or commit any other anti-park acts.
Myślewicki Palace and the old guardhouse are two more buildings that have managed somehow to escape my notice. Outside the guardhouse an energetic group of people are doing something systematic with sticks and laughing at their incompetences.
Time is galloping by, so I head out of the park, looking back at the perfect reflection of the palace. At my daughter’s, I play little cockatoos (who somehow morph into mummy and daddy fish) and luxuriate in coffee made with her new machine. That first sip! A perfect end to a perfect walk.
Have a look at https://warsaw2015.wordpress.com/2015/02/04/a-walk-in-lazienki/ for the background to the Chinese presence in Łazienki, and links to other Łazienki posts.
So much joy in this post Meg! And stunning photos. I love the immediacy of it all and your descriptions heightening expectations. It helps that I’ve been there. Such a lovely place. Dying for coffee but I’m accidentally staying in a private house and don’t want to clatter about waking people! I know! It’s a story! Got to put the phone off and charge the battery now or there’ll be none for Gilly. Off I go, laden with hugs xxx
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Accidentally??? I need the story when you’ve finished making more stories with Gilly. Would you like this post for Monday walks?
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I would LOVE this for my Monday walks, Meg! 🙂 🙂 Sorry for the delayed reply. You know I was otherwise engaged and the Wifi on my coach was rubbish (but for a tenner? 🙂 ).
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Delayed reply???? You don’t know the meaning of this phrase! Hugs, if there’s any room left after Gilly.
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Always room! 🙂 🙂
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Ok- I’m not going to post it so I’ll tell you in brief. 🙂 In order to save money (cheapskate, you know!) I booked somewhere called Second City Lodge in an obscure bit of Brum. I had my doubts as I walked in that direction, through the Gay Village and past Chinatown to an industrial estate with mixed council housing interspersed. My directions were specific but I stopped to ask several people and finally, about 7, my phone rang. ‘Where are you?’ Landlady! As she ‘talked’ me down the street she suddenly said ‘oh, I can see you, no, this way!’ and there she was waving from the doorstep of a council house. 🙂 She just let a room but called herself a Lodge because it sounded better! She was actually very sweet and helpful and once I’d adjusted to the surprise it was fine.
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I love tales of accommodation adventures! Is she guilty of false advertising?
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Indeed! But very cheap and very nice really so I felt a bit mean ‘shopping’ her on Booking.com. She texted me asking me to leave a review and I left a nice one but I did ‘sprag’ on her. It’s not really the right way to get customers, is it?
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I’m eavesdropping…I hope we shall hear the story! Have loads of fun with Gilly…
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Accidentally? You mean you weren’t meant to be there? I am intrigued and like Sue, waiting for the story… have fun ladies 🙂
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What lovely vignettes Meg…it will come as no surprise that I particularly liked the detail of peeling posters on the blue fence, and the blooms in assorted stages of decay!!
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I told you I took various blogging mates on this walk and saw briefly through their eyes. You picked the shots I took impersonating you!
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Oh, brilliant!! 😀😀
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Meg you’ve surpassed yourself yet again with these photos. Who is SHE? What a beauty! I think the yellow flowers are Day Lilies. I’ve on the bus to meet Jo since 6.15 and can’t wait to get there x😊x
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And you had a wonderful day I gather, and gave your readers a vicarious wonderful day. I can’t believe you’ve never been on a tram! You must have been wiped out by the time you got home.
As for the statue (I presume you mean the shawled one) she had no identifying plaque. So I have no idea. She remains a mystery. I’m glad you enjoyed the walk – it was one of my richer ones with unexpected unexpectednesses!
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How can anyone never have been on a tram? I nearly fell over when she told me! 🙂 🙂 An Exeter lass, through and through! With exotic bits. Smiling, Gilly 🙂 🙂 I meant to include a tram pic for you Meg but forgot. Several will sneak into the next Brum post. Fortunately I was alone when I saw them first and could squeal and bounce up and down unheded. 🙂 And I only popped in here to say I love the shawl lady too.
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I noticed her walking home from the Chopin concert with J on Sunday, but she had company – and so did I. So I was glad to find her alone on Monday morning.
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Still getting along well with J. I love it! 🙂 Hugs to you both!
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Love the pandas, I guess it is one of those exhibitions like the elephants or the rhinos or Shaun the Sheep… (?) but my favourite photo has to be the girl in the shawl. Exquisite. Who is she?
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Isn’t she beautiful? come on Meg tell us!
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At first glance, from a distance, I thought the pandas were motorized rides. They were placed higgledy-piggledy on a patch of nondescript concrete between amphitheatre and palace. Not displayed to best advantage.
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Sometimes you just have to come back to a post to read all the responses. 🙂 🙂 Background knowledge, dontcha know…
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Another wonderful set of photos. What a lovely walk.
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Tee hee….I do agree! Occasionally guilty
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Another lovely walk, Meg! You always get beautiful photos of the things you see and discover. I was so intrigued by the marble statue of the young woman. It looks identical to a bronze sculpture at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City titled “Winter,” by Jean Antoine Houdon. I noticed your photo of it immediately because the Met sculpture is one of my favorite works of art. Here’s a link to the Met Museum’s description of the bronze sculpture, which has a photo: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/62.55/.
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What an intriguing pairing! Now I wonder about the links. A search of the Łazienki site was no help. And even if I find the same artist’s name, as surely I’d have to, it wouldn’t necessarily explain provenances. When I googled the artist’s name I found this
https://news.artnet.com/art-world/nazi-looted-bust-restituted-poland-395391
So Houdon certainly had a presence, and in Łazienki.
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What an interesting article. I’ve heard of other cases like this before, of course, but intriguing that it involves the artist of our sculptures!
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A good idea to take an early walk and avoid the harsh light later in the day. I really enjoyed the stroll, intriguing sculptures, beautiful reflections and framed walks and that extravagant golden flower.
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Harsh light – and harsh heat! Łazienki is a wonderful place to wander, and so close to the city. Free to ramble any daylight time, and once a royal preserve. I’m glad you enjoyed accompanying me.
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