My strategy in a strange place? Divide the long summer day into three, with rests between each segment. That way I remain alert and delightable. After two wet walks – my hostel room is draped with drying clothes – I ramble on a dry evening, along streets a few back from the waterfront. Here there are some modern buildings, designed with reference to the shape of older constructions, and some quite charmless older buildings. The pace is a lot less frenetic, and more local: a kid on a bike with huge tyres; people walking their dogs: older couples, unencumbered by backpacks and cameras, sitting on benches in a park.
As I approach ul Mariacka, street of gargoyles, I look up and see the tower I walked up this morning. That’s where I was, in the dark grey hexagon with the green windows just below the spires.
I walk along ul Mariacka towards St Mary’s church, a Gothic building which can hold 25 000 people, pausing to notice an old building I failed to see under gargoyle enchantment yesterday.