Brick, villas, a museum and wooden houses

My second full day in Łódź lacks the warm company of Jo, who made yesterday so pleasant, and my sightseeing feels a bit weary and unprofitable. After a very satisfactory breakfast, I dilly-dally before setting off. This time I have a plan, but I suspect more pleasure comes from desultory rambling, just stumbling across things. I’m gradually getting my head around the geography of inner Łódź and mastering the 11 tram route as I develop a theory about the number of days one (or at least this one) needs to orient oneself in a new city. I juggle two pamphlets, a map, a notebook and an unwillingness to make an effort. The plan is to leave the promenade part of ul Piotrkowska and head down towards the Central Museum of the Textile Industry, taking in a few villas and some factories. As I set off, I have to swallow my boast about mastery of tram route: it’s exactly that route I’m now walking down and I had no idea!

This end of town has some glamour, as well as the utilitarian beauty of brick. 


I reach the museum, and again I’m in the world of brick. It’s a glorious day, so I only spend a short time inside. A mural offers graphic confirmation of the pollution that drove Łódź rivers underground, and a projection of the factory floor with one woman attending many clattering looms shows clearly how machines put an end to cottage industry.The technicalities of textile manufacture are beyond me so I opt for patterns. Once the machinery changes from wood to metal I lose photographic interest. However two things capture my imagination: a reconstruction of the spinning jenny, a key invention in the mechanisation of weaving; and a reconstruction of an ancient vertical loom, with its loom weights. 

Outside, I spend a pleasant half-hour wandering round the skansen: wooden buildings with a simple beauty from the early nineteenth century.

I leave the museum passing the elegant gate and the guardian dwarf, catching a glimpse of what might be a river …

… and head up to the other end of town to pay a duty call on Manufaktura, a 27 hectare complex resulting from the “revitalisation” of an old factory building. It takes me about two seconds to decide I don’t want to be here amidst razzmatazz, crowds and commerce, despite the clever repurposing, and I go back to ul Piotrkowska for lunch.

About morselsandscraps

A retired Australian who spends a lot of time in Warsaw, and blogs as a way of life.
This entry was posted in architecture, photos, Łódź and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

14 Responses to Brick, villas, a museum and wooden houses

  1. Sue says:

    Love those images of the looms!


  2. restlessjo says:

    Much, much easier to pay attention to detail when you don’t have the distraction of a lovely companion, Meg. I love this post, disconsolate though you might have been. So many shots hug me! The looms of course, and I would have loved the skansen and yes, one image of Manufaktura is enough. My next treat is your dilapidation 🙂 Still organising me so a post will be a day or so. Hugs, sweetheart! 🙂 🙂


    • I only paid attention to detail because it’s my easy way out! I missed my lovely companion who noticed many things I overlooked. “Disconsolate” is exactly the word. If I could have seen Manufaktura alone, I think I’d have enjoyed the architecture: I’m a fan of brick. The skansen was a bit disappointing- I don’t think that last building was in fact part of it. The Lublin skansen set the bar pretty high. I’ve spent the week with Maja and Jaś – no preschool because of very runny noses. It’s been great bonding, being with them on my own.


  3. Rosemary Barnard says:

    Manufaktura was also in Prague, but familiar to me only in the form of a chain of small shops selling items of Czech craft from different parts of the country. I bought a lovely pink gingham “horsey” with pink strands of silk for the mane and tail for my great-niece Bella. She loves it. These shops are promoted via an entry in a guidebook to Prague and were on my list for a visit before I even left Australia. I would definitely be interested in having a peek inside the one in Warsaw. It is great that handicrafts continue to be encouraged so that traditional techniques and styles are not lost.


    • I remembered your Prague experience, but I doubt this offers the same local craft, although I could be wrong. The museums would be worth a visit, but the weather was too lovely to be inside. That day I was crowd-averse.


      • Rosemary Barnard says:

        I know exactly how crowds can wear you out and even irritate. Many times I have just had to escape out of their presence to preserve enough of my own space and silence. I have to remind myself that they have as much right to be there as I do, but it is hard because all concentration has to go on avoiding their trajectories so that I miss a lot of the reason I am there in the first place. Never, ever, visit Venice during the warmer months.

        Liked by 1 person

  4. Lucid Gypsy says:

    What a lovely city with so many design details to enjoy, and amazing variety. If I had to choose I like the bunch of photos of the building just before the dwarf, it’s so pretty 🙂


    • And I couldn’t find out what it was! You’d think it would be featured. May you weekend be wonderful. I’m resting up a bit after a very satisfying week of twins home from preschool with colds.


  5. pommepal says:

    Amazing architecture and so much to admire. That vibrant blue on the looms was very eye catching. What were they making? I could understand your dilly dallying. Now a days I am much slower to get going. I have countless projects hovering in the back ground but I think knowing I have no departure date for anywhere, I tend to just procrastinate.


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